Two German Designers Win Hyères Festival 2015
For thirty years, each spring the fashion and art worlds have directed their attention to a small port town in the south of France. Hyères is the location for the “Festival International de Mode et de Photographie”, where designers and photographers compete with the best and most creative among their peers under the critical eyes of a top-class jury. This year Caroline of Monaco, Caroline de Maigret, former editor-in chief of Vogue Carine Roitfeld and designer Anthony Vaccarello (winner of the Hyères price in 2006) are among the jury members selected for the creative festival, which was founded in 1985 by the current festival director and artistic director of the Villa Noailles, Monsieur Jean-Pierre Blanc.
An accompanying exhibition titled “The Formers” reunites twelve former participants, whose collections were shown at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin in the last three years, including Steven Tai, Satu Maaranen and Roshi Porkar. This year, too, one of the candidates for the Hyères Fashion Award will be invited by Mercedes-Benz and the magazine Elle to present a collection in Berlin.
For fashion made in Germany, the festival was a double success, since both fashion trophies were won by German designers: the Grand Prix of the Jury Première Vision by Annelie Schubert, and the Chloé Prize by Anna Bornhold.
Schubert, who studied at the Art Academy Weissensee in Berlin, impressed jury members with a daring mix of materials, combining tweed and neoprene. The sculptural silhouettes and accentuated backs of her designs are inspired by classic apron shapes, interpreted with much elegance and refinement. She now has the opportunity to show her next collection at the Hyères festival in 2016.
Bremen-based Anna Bornhold convinced the Chloé jury through her bold use of multilayered textiles, whose production process is akin to quilting, as well as intricate embroidery. Nevertheless her style remains more casual-modern than lush romantic, as exemplified by a jumpsuit, which received an extra round of applause from the judges.
Our wish for the two designers is that they stay true to their style, continue to perfect their craft, and become equally successful as previous winners, such as Viktor + Rolf or Gaspard Yurkievich.
Photos: Charles et Marie-Laure de Noailles „Une Vie de Mécènes“; Grégoire Alexandre